Estate Appraisals Associates - Colorado - Fine Art Appraisals and Restoration

Fine Art Appraisal and stamped Valuations are available from us to you almost anywhere  in the Western United States.  If you do not have a current documented, stamped and filed appraisal of your fine art, you would very likely NOT be reimbursed full value from your insurance carrier in the event of loss due to fire, smoke damage, or criminal activity. Documented appraisals on fine art holdings can be crucial in the event of divorce action, estate planning, probate court requirements, fair legacy asset designation, and for prevention of inheritor disputes under a will.

Ninya spent 18 years as an insurance agent and Licensed Financial Planner, before coming back to her first love, the ART industry. She will come to your home or office for the initial review of your art collection. Please feel free to call for an estimate of charges. The cost will be minor indeed compared to your possible LOSSES.

  • Ninya Lee Greek has extensive education and professional experience in the Art Industry:   Chouinard Art School in Los Angeles (now California Institute of the Arts located in Valencia, CA)

  • University of Missouri at Columbia, MO

  • Winona State College at Winona, Minnesota

  • William and Mary College, extension division in Norfolk, Virginia

  • Juneau Douglas Museum studying Tlinget Haida culture, art and artifacts

  • 154 credit hours toward a Masters Degree in Fine Arts and Art History

Thanks to her eclectic schooling [including recognition and transliteration of ancient, medieval, and modern languages], and given her buying and art market experience around the word, Ninya feels equipped to view, identify, and valuate most types of fine art.

  • Gallery owner for 18 years in Anchorage, Alaska

  • Gallery Acquisition travel for recognition and authenticity study of Native Art and Artifacts in Alaska:  Nome, Kotzebue, Fairbanks, Delta Junction, Sitka, Juneau-Douglas, Petersburg, Wrangell, Ketchikan

As an appraiser specializing in American Native Art and Artifacts—with a particular interest in Alaska Native Art—Ninya is considered one of the country’s foremost experts in buying and selling nearly all artists and artisans, Native or Caucasian, in Alaska—  practicing/contemporary, and deceased.

A side note: “Ms. Greek's love of art and artisans has helped her gain commendable insight into matching people to their perfect choices in fine arts for their home or office. Her intuitive insight may exceed that of others in her field because her depth and breadth of knowledge, plus traveling all over the US while doing appraisal work, allows her a wider range of  'What is out there.' ‘Remember, viewing art is food for the soul,’ she often says to me. ‘All people are truly unique especially in their Art choices.’ Ninya feels it is her highest calling to help a person find happiness in their selection of Fine Art. ‘One must understand a buyer, their desires, budget, and expectations,’ she has told me on many occasions. Estate Appraisals Associates has services for every budget.”  Candi Evans

 


Authentication Instructions:

1. Try to answer all questions in Parts I and II below; information should come from your own knowledge. If data comes from a document that you have viewed but cannot include as hardcopy, or comes from discussions with another individual, put that information in "quotation marks." Please do not guess.

2. You should prepare a separate Authentication Form for each of your originals or prints, also a separate Authentication Form for each set (portfolios) of prints.

3. We require five (if pertinent) photographs of your original piece or print:

a) the complete image/sculpture/artifact including mat and frame and any other accompanying case or display materials

b) the signature (close-up)

c) the numbering/date (close-up)

d) the back, sides, bottom of the piece if three dimensional or otherwise pertinent [for example, many photographers—including Ansel Adams—sign their photos on the back; many ceramicists sign/date pieces on the bottom]

e) a mid-range view to show brush strokes, original print marks, or chisel/hand-crafting marks

4. If you have any relevant documents, such as Certificates of Authenticity, Invoices, original receipts of purchase, etc., please make copies and attach them with this form, or scan and e-mail them.

5. Please enclose a check or money order for the initial fee, which we will discuss on the phone—sometimes nothing, or sometimes a fair amount once there is agreement on work to be performed.


How to take photos:

You can submit photographs of the piece (pieces) which you are hoping to have Appraised. However, unless you do the photographs in the specific manner described following, they will be practically useless. Digital photos, unless done by a professional, invariably have reflections and shadows prohibiting a TRUE VIEW. We can't see a thing clearly. And clarity is absolutely imperative. The resolution is better with a standard 35 mm camera, but the same problems of reflections & shadows apply as above.

 It is, however, definitely cheaper to snail-mail me a CD composed by a professional photographer, rather than pay for travel expenses for myself; or, barring that, travel expenses for yourself.  Eventually, I will have to view the pieces in questions IN THE REAL.  But, initially you would, no doubt, like an informed opinion as to IF these items are VALUABLE ENOUGH to plan a "full on" Appraisal.  This is where the professionally done photographs are 100% required.

When hiring a photographer, go to the best you can afford, preferably at a photography store front location, rather than a friend, where the following requirements are understood and results are guaranteed.

  • Place the pieces on over large black felt or velvet background to delete any and all distracting information and minimize reflections.

  • Use the strongest light you can find, quartz lighting is good.  But DO NOT allow that light to shine on your Fine Art for more than a few minutes. Avoid light damage like the plague, especially on antique pieces, photographs or watercolor originals.  Lighting should be stabilized, not hand held.  Motion at the optimum moment is ruinous to your results. Stabilize your camera, as well. 

  • Take five photos as described above.

  • Semi-gloss 8 x 10 color prints are acceptable, providing details are clear; high-resolution images on a CD are fine, even preferable because of zooming options, as long as the file extension chosen by the photographer is standard, such as jpeg or tif.

You see why you need a professional photographer?

 

Authentication Form  (Please fill out the form below or download form as printable pdf file )

Part I - Personal Information

 

Today’s date
Name
Company
Street
City
State
ZIP
Tel.
(123)123-1234  (in this format, no empty spaces)
Fax 
e-mail

 

Part II - Print Information

 

1. Title of Print / Portfolio:

2. Date you acquired it:

3. Numbers or letters in lower left, under image:

4. Wording, if any, below the image (other than the signature):
5. Height of plate mark or image:
6. Width of plate mark or image:
7. If portfolio, what other items are there:
8. Publisher:
9. Date of publication:
10. From whom acquired:


If your print is not framed, you can provide additional helpful information about its paper:

11.Height of paper:

12. Width of paper:
13. Edges of the paper:  Are they irregular or cut smooth
14.Watermark: A watermark is a brand name or logo put into the paper by its manufacturer. It can be seen by holding the print up to a light; a table or floor lamp is more practical than overhead ceiling lighting. The watermark is usually at one of the corners, or (rarely) at one of the edges of the paper. If the paper was milled in 1980 or after, there may be an additional tiny mark, right at the edge of the paper -- an infinity mark (looks like the number 8 turned on its side). Attach a freehand sketch of the watermark (it does not have to be to scale) to your mailing. (it does not have to be to scale.)

15. Blind Stamps: Blind stamps (also known as embossments, chops, or dry stamps), are made by pressing a metal mold into the paper; a notary’s seal is an example. The stamps used on prints are not inked, and can be seen to stand above the paper’s surface. They usually contain the publisher’s logo, or in some instances, the printer’s.

If your print contains a blind stamp, it can usually be found in the lower right or lower left corner of the print; hold the paper at an angle to a light source. Attach a freehand sketch of the Blind Stamp (it does not have to be to scale) to your mailing.

Checklist of materials you need to send the Archives:

 1. Complete Sections I and II above
 2. Enclose at least three photographs of your print
 3. Attach copies of documents
 4. Mail your check or money order for $100.00

PO Box 4172
Boulder, CO 80306
Tel/Fax: 303-861-0976
ninya2@comcast.net

 

 

 

 

 

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